UPDATE! April 2023
I have found a new “best glue for chine collee”, suggested by a student on a course. This is Tylose Powder. It is an edible glue used in cake decorating, and comes as a fine white powder.
You use it just like wallpaper glue, described below but as it is so fine it works straight out of the packet, no grinding necessary. So just wet the chine collee paper and sprinkle a very thin layer of tylose powder on the back, this will then stick to the damp printing paper in the press.
It has been great to start running ‘real’ courses again after lockdown, what a thrill as students arrived for the chine collee course, peeping nervously round the door explaining that this was their first real outing in 5 months! The initial trepidation soon evaporated and everyone felt inspired by being with people again, and sharing creative activities together. Each course has felt like a tonic for the soul and an affirmation of how much we need each other.
Space to spread out
I re-arranged the studio to include the garage as well so the groups of four had space to spread out. Despite this extra room we quickly filled every surface – there must be some law of physics that says printmakers expand to cover every available inch regardless of the area.
This is especially true with chine collee, on the two-day course we created our own papers, printing and painting with abandon, as well as finding pre-printed papers with text and photos. Once the ‘magnetic wall’ was lined with chine collee paper we started using it in prints in multiple ways.
The release from lockdown energy meant that people hardly stopped for a cup of tea – this wonderful burst of creativity produced loads of prints, all exploring different ways of combining various chine collee papers with intaglio prints. The prints shown in this post were all made on the course.
Good ideas from blog readers
I always like to experiment a bit on courses, leaving elements open to chance, and the creative inclination of everyone taking part. So on this course I decided to test out a new glueing method suggested by Robert Finch in his comment on my previous blog post about chine collee. I usually use cornstarch glue and it works pretty well, so adding an alternative option didn’t feel too risky.
In my course preparation I did test out the new method, as chine collee can be tricky at the best of times, I made a few modifications to ensure it worked, but basically it was untested.
Old Chine Collee glue rejected!
On the course I demonstrated the cornstarch glue method (see the ‘basic chine collee’ post) and then threw in the new wallpaper glue method as an option. It was interesting that after the second demo nobody even considered using the cornstarch glue, and the lumpy jelly sat in its jar ignored for the rest of the course.
Rigorous testing
We thoroughly tested the new method out and found it to be almost 100% successful, for both complete beginners and experienced printmakers alike. The few times the paper didn’t stick were discussed and unpicked so everyone understood the method and the few pitfalls to watch out for. These are described below.
What is Chine Collee?
I am not going to explain chine collee in detail as it is covered in a previous post but in a nutshell, it involves incorporating printed or painted paper in a print as an integral part of the printing process. You can introduce areas of particular colour, text or imagery and totally alter the nature of the prints, producing many different images from a single plate.
Chine collee paper is thin and must be firmly glued to the damp printing paper as it goes through the press with the inked-up plate.
Different glues to choose from
There are several glues that work for chine collee, all have merits and also downsides, here are some we discussed on the course;
- Pritt stick (or any glue stick): can pulls and tear the fragile paper, easy to miss areas and get bubbles where it hasn’t stuck down.
- Pva: this generally sticks on everything making handling the thin papers tricky. It can squeeze out round the edges preventing the ink from printing on the paper and leaving white marks. Frequently needs to be re-stuck after the print has been through the press, which is quite annoying.
- Cornstarch: needs practice to apply it evenly and avoid it splurging out, if you aren’t quick enough it dries before use and the paper lifts at the edges.
- Japanese rice paste: this glue is similar to cornstarch.
- Spraymount: some people use this but I could never get it to stick on the damp printing paper. It is expensive and as an aerosol spray, is bad for the environment.
- Wall paper glue: avoids most of these issues, and works like a dream. We were all biased but wallpaper glue is clearly top trumps in the chine collee glue stakes.
The wall paper Chine Collee method explained
Have a look at the video to see a practical demonstration of this method. Here are notes to help remind you of the different stages.
1. Prepare your glue
Wallpaper glue has flakes in it, I found that larger flakes overlap the edge of the chine collee paper and make uneven white lines in the print. To avoid this, grind the dry wallpaper glue in a pestle and mortar. The aim is to make it like a powder with no big flakes.
2. Devise a method to sprinkle the glue evenly
Put some of the powder in a muslin cloth or piece of scrim and gather up the edges to make a pounce bag, alternatively use a fine tea strainer.
3. Get everything ready;
you need to keep moving once you’ve started so the paper doesn’t dry out.
- Cut or tear the chine collee paper to the size and shape you want it
- Ink your plate up and lay it on the press bed
- Have your printing paper nice and damp and ready to go.
4. Wet the chine collee paper
Lay the chine collee papr on a pile of old newspaper.
Spray it with water in a plant spray bottle, then gently brush it with a soft brush to make sure the whole surface is evenly damp.
Move the paper to a clean dry surface, right side down.
5. Apply the glue
Sprinkle an even layer of powdered wallpaper glue all over the back of the paper.
Take care not to sprinkle too much, or uneven amounts as it can become like a layer of jelly.
Printing your plate with chine collee
Carefully lay the damp gluey chine collee paper on to your inky printing plate. Remember; GLUE SIDE UP. (Everybody gets this wrong at some point!)
Lay the damp printing paper on top, and run the whole plate-chine collee-printing paper sandwich through the press.
Very carefully and slowly peel the printing paper off the plate. If the chine collee seems to be separating try lifting the paper from a different edge.
If some areas are not completely stuck cover the print with tissue paper and rub it to glue then back down.
The chine collee should be well stuck to the paper, and its colour will show through the ink on your print.
Dry the damp prints flat between blotting paper and boards to avoid the paper cockling as it dries.
What can possibly go wrong?
The few times it failed were due to;
- the chine collee paper drying out before it went through the press, meaning the dried glue didn’t stick well.
- large flat areas of ink on the plate which the chine collee paper stuck to (rather than the printing paper)
- pulling the print off the plate too fast
Stress free Chine Collee
The glue never squeezed out, nobody got too sticky, and very little glue was wasted as the dry glue keeps well till next time.
Everyone had time to concentrate on making beautiful prints without the usual stress of rescuing patches of failed chine collee.
If you use chine collee in your prints you must try this out. I am sure your printmaking life will be improved and you may never return to your previous old glues.
As ever, your comments are welcome….
Thank you so much for this absolutely excellent information. I will copy it so that I remember for next time.
I am glad it is helpful, good luck with your Chine Collee.
What is the very best chine collee paper to use?
Hi Susanne, the main thing is that the Chine Collee paper is thinner than the printing paper, and as you need to make it damp it needs to be strong enough not to collapse when wet.
I quite often use newsprint, but if you want something posher Hosho paper is good. If you have any Chinese or Japanese thin papers it is worth giving them a try as they are often made with long fibres so are quite strong when wet.I’d suggest having a session to experiment with different papers and decide which you like best!
Hi there,
This looks like a good idea!
One approach I have tested recently is to run the Chine under the press with the print BUT glue it down aftwerwards, once everything is dry. It works for me!
It seems the Chine Collee methods are as varied as the printmakers! Do you ever have a problem with the printing paper and the Chine Collee paper shrinking at different rates if they aren’t glued together?
I was advised by my tutor to allow the wallpaper paste to sit for 3 hours once mixed to give the best results. Not tested it yet but thought would pass on
That sounds like a different method, as in the one we tried we never mixed the wallpaper paste with water – just sprinkled it on to the damp paper.
I have always used Nori paste for my Chinr Collee as it is proved archival, is wallpaper paste archival? I would think it might yellow over time.
Hi Nicola, thanks for your comment. I can’t answer your question with confidence, I wonder if anybody else has experience of the archival qualities of wallpaper glue?
Thanks! Did you ever try plain old Niagra spray starch? Starch glue is dry starch and water so pre-liquified in an applicator would seem ideal.
I hadn’t thought of that, but it sounds like a good idea. Will look out for spray starch when I am next shopping!
Well, I’m back! I tried spray starch and it did not adhere tissue paper to the printmaking paper. I am not a chemist so I can’t explain why. But I guess I should have figured that if spray starch did work for chine colle it would by now already have been widely touted.
You never know till you try though – its always worth a go if you have a hunch about something….
I have some ancient dry powdered rabbit skin glue and Wheat paste powder. How would these work for chine cole? Also, sometimes ink and maybe glue squirt onto the print paper at the base of the print. Q: Too much water in process either in the paper or tissue? Or too much pressure?
I think wheat powder would work as this is basically a starch glue, so similar to Japanese nori, or cornflour paste. Not so sure about rabbit skin glue, this is quite strong and a bit of a faff, (and smelly too!).
If you find glue is squeezing out it means you have got too much glue on, you could try the method using dried wallpaper paste on damp paper – this is described in the post – and avoids the issue of too much water / glue.
I’m still experimenting with Chine cole..
I find that spray starch on tissue paper and allowed to dry makes the tissue paper stronger during the chine cole handling.. (Just be careful not to put the spray starch on the side of the plate… It sticks to the plate.) I let the sprayed tissue paper dry, then put it on wet paper towel, starch side up to dampen in plastic bag. Then I transfer spray side up to plate and roll it through the press. This seems to work fairly well and does not buckle because the tissue paper is not too wet.
Thanks for this suggestion Edith – it definitely sounds worth a try. Do you use laundry starch?
Is it cheating to stick tissue paper down first with decopatch glue? (although if you get glue outside the tissue it leaves a shiny patch). Does that still count as chine collee?
Well its not cheating but it misses one of the key purposes of Chine Collee which is that you can place the Chine Collee paper exactly where you want it on your plate, so it lines up with your design. If you stick it on the paper first it would be more tricky to line it up with specific areas of the plate. It is also worth mentioning that if you are using damp printing paper the Chine Collee needs to be damp as well, so it moulds to the contours of the plate and really becomes part of the whole print. This aspect is helped by having a water based reversible glue which will allow the different papers to expand and contract together reducing the risk of it cockling up
You could glue it to the paper first and then print on it though – especially if you print is more free and abstract in design. Rules are made to be tested!
I use artist grade methylcellulose, which is basically finally ground wallpaper paste Which eliminates the initial grinding. I mix the metal cellulose with a little water and let it sit for 30 minutes which makes a nice glue. I Paint the back of the paper and, Wait for it,, I let it dry. At printing time I soaked the paper a little more than I normally would, and then print as usual. The damp paper rehydrates the glue beautifully. It makes it so much easir to place the chin colle When it’s dry rather than wet. I can get very precise about placement. After printing, I place between blotters and lightly weight it to insure adheasion. So far, it works great.
Thanks for that info Miki, and your really clear description. That sounds like a good method to use. I have recently discovered that tylose powder also works well as a glue – this is generally used for cake decorating, it is a very fine powder so perhaps similar to the artist grade methylcellulose you suggest. I will give your ‘dry’ method a go next time I am using chine collee