Printing from Clingfilm

In this post I will show you how to use clingfilm to transfer images to paper without a press.

We will print from the texture of clingfilm itself, and also print from relief inked plates.

What is clingfilm?

For my international audience I should probably start by saying clingfilm goes by different names, in your kitchen you may know it as saran wrap or gladwrap, the stronger stuff is called pallet wrap or wrapping film.

What’s so great about clingfilm?

It clings, and it clings to ink, so it works really well as a means to transfer ink from one surface to another. This is printing without a press, and as a bonus the image from your plate is not reversed.

Clingfilm is stretchy and flexible, it lets you distort your images, expanding them and scrunching them up.

Because this method is so quick and (deceptively) simple you can use it to make ‘free’ mono prints after your printing session, which is a good way to build up your supply of chine collee papers. You can also take new prints from existing ones before the ink dries.

Here is a video to give you the general idea of how to work with clingfilm….

Measuring clingfilm

The thickness of the film is commonly measured in microns, written as µ, and pronounced ‘mew’. However, just to make life more comples there are several other measures used; ‘gauge’, mm and inches. Here is a link to a comparison chart if needed.

So what does that all mean for printmakers?

Clingfilm with thickness of 8/9/10µ is very thin, I wouldn’t even try using this for printmaking. The average thickness for kitchen type clingfilm is 12.7µ, this can work at a pinch but tears easily.

If you really want to get into printing with clingfilm I recommend 20 µ (or 80 gauge). This is much stronger and stretchier, and is the type of film used for wrapping pallets.

There are lots of suppliers on line, not all sell single rolls though. I got mine from Viking, about £10 for a 50cm x 300m roll.

Inks

In these examples I used linseed oil based inks.

What is the best paper for clingfilm printing?

The smoother your paper the better the print will be.

For good clear bright prints coated paper with a shiny surface, as used by commercial printers works very well. (try asking for offcuts if you have a local printing firm)

Rough paper doesn’t attract so much ink so the prints will be paler; I’d suggest experimenting with anything you have lying around first to see what you think. I have used it to print directly into my sketchbook, I actually left the clingfilm sticking to the page as it looked good like that.

If you have some wet strength tissue for chine collee use the shiny side for cling film prints.

I made this print by crinkling the clingfilm up as I laid it on the inked plate. When I printed it on paper I stretched it out so the image is bigger than the original plate, as well as being distorted.

window stickers

You may be concerned about how much clingfilm you are using – why not use the inky film to make window stickers.

I stick the used film to a window as I work, the layers build up and look like stained glass.

If you remove the bundle from the window when you’ve finished and put a heatgun on it the layers all stick together and the edges are sealed. I think that is the start of another project – let me know what you do with it!